IN THE SMALLEST of surveys, we found two people who think that Sugar on Snow is “sort of like a snow cone”. Since it’s nothing like that, we decided to explain it to everyone who will read this.

Sugar on Snow is a communal springtime treat in which partakers dribble half a spoonful of boiled-down maple syrup onto packed snow. The snow thickens the syrup so you can pick it up with a fork and eat it. It’s served with sour pickles, a doughnut, and if you’re lucky, hard-boiled eggs, and cup of tea or coffee. It’s a traditional, fabulous combination of plain and fancy, sweet and sour tastes.

I don’t really care to eat it in a commercial sugar shack because I don’t like to pay so much for food so poorly presented that a self-respecting Vermonter may lose at least one percent of their self-respect each time they do. Syrup is served in a Styrofoam cup, snow is served in a paper bowl, a doughnut is served on a paper napkin, pickles in a common dish. They provide a plastic spoon and fork. The doughnuts may be so dreadful that Grandmother Lansell does not just roll over but sheds tears in her grave.

When Sugar on Snow is explained to one who has not relished it every year of their life, the person may curl their lips in revulsion at how uncivilized it sounds. On the other hand, it is nauseating to sit at table with newcomers who make a watery mess or waste syrup because they don’t know what to do.

This is what to do: Sugar on Snow (traditional Bryant-family method): Takes place on a Sunday afternoon in sugaring season (springtime), at the dining room table. Serves 6-8 people.

The day before the feast: make doughnuts, buy pickles, boil eggs, get snow.

Raised Doughnuts: Use a plain bread recipe (no eggs, small amount of sugar). After the first rise, roll out the dough and cut out the doughnuts. Let them rise, then fry them. (Morse Farm sells them.) An ordinary bread dough recipe will make enough for each person to have two. If you are inviting a crowd, make two batches.

Pickles: Buy sour pickles, if you didn’t make your own last summer.

Eggs: Hard-boil at least one, maybe two, for each person.

Snow: Find some good clean snow; none with yellow on it, Uncle Jack used to say. Drive down to Brookfield Gulf for it if you have to. Pack a couple of dishpans full. Cover it and store it in the freezer (or the shed). When the syrup is nearly ready, have one of the kids dish the snow into individual bowls.

Syrup: Use Vermont medium or amber grade. Fancy grade is not flavorful enough for this purpose. Pour half a gallon into a very large pan. Gently boil the syrup down to softball stage or when a bit dribbled on a sample of snow stays on top in a soft mass that can be twirled around the tines of a fork. (It can’t be so thin that it melts the snow and disappears.) Keep a chunk of butter near the stove. If the syrup threatens to boil over, drop in a half-teaspoon of butter to prevent a mess and loss of syrup.

Children set the table with bowls of snow, spoons and forks for each person. Place the doughnuts, eggs, and pickles in serving bowls on the table. Serve each person a dish of hot syrup. Grownups should show the children how to dribble the syrup on the snow: perhaps writing an initial or name, perhaps making small circles, or wiggly lines. It’s half the fun. If the snow gets too watery, pour off the water. Perhaps you will have to turn over the snow in your bowl, or add new snow. Never drop syrup into a puddle of slush.

Grownups like a cup of coffee or tea to drink. Kids like milk or water. When everyone has had their fill, put any leftover syrup into one bowl and beat it, without stopping, until it turns tan colored and sugary. Quickly drop it by the spoonful onto a buttered plate. Maple candy!

Do not plan to eat an evening meal. Rest in peace, Grandmother, Grandfather.

Do you have a sugar on snow experience to share? Commontalk@ trans-video.net.