2010-05-27 / House & Home

What’s Cooking

Cookbooks Some Personal Thoughts
By PHYLLIS GREENWAY
The Northfield News
As you might have gathered, I collect cookbooks, from the old to the new, specialized to basic. They are beyond reference, they are friends to be revisited. Throughout the years I have used them as albums. Instead of a box that will be unopened with lack of time, I’ve put favorite photos or notes that my husband or sons have written to me between the pages. Sometimes I’ll find a drawing or two, just on a scrap, to remind me of a scene out the window or how something is to be made and so on.

“A Picture is worth a Thousand words”

Illustration of cookbooks is relatively new. “Joy of Cooking” had some, Julia’s volumes had line drawings and some photos later, Cooking magazines vary. “Cook’s Illustrated” features a painting on its cover, and inside one finds drawings as an explanation of recipes’ procedures. Simplicity of ideas and procedures of testing and results are given. The editorials are at the beginning. Links to Vermont and a more simple time are terrific.

(As “Gourmet” became more focused on the upper scale society “druthers”, it became clogged with advertisements and obscure ingredients. I don’t miss it, but I do keep very old special issues. Its photography was always great)

Photography

It sells a cookbook nowadays. Some expensive volumes contain relatively few recipes, the images taking first place, Ina Garten (The Barefoot Contessa of the Cooking Channel), Martha Stewart in her cookbooks and magazine, for example. Specific choices have been made by the authors or editors to focus on the best rather than give us more written copy. Not that the recipes featured aren’t great, (for the most part they are), but I’m left with a hardcover, expensive volume that contains a couple of things that, maybe, I’ll make more than once.

Great Combos

So, looking for a balance of info plus pleasure to the eye, may I suggest a couple favorites that appeal to the artist in me as well as the cook:

The first: “The Silver Palate Cookbook”, written by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. This volume contains rather upscale recipes that are simple and very good. Each page features whimsical illustrations in ink, plus tips, cooking lore and a menu here and there. It does not overwhelm with possibilities but gives a lot to choose from.

The second: “The Enchanted Broccoli Forest” by Mollie Katzen. This is one of a series that she has written. And I mean she personally wrote, hand lettered and illustrated this volume in the most professional manner. Its focus is on vegetarian dishes and breads. I learned so much from it as well as being charmed by the content. Her cookbooks have been wildly successful. Perhaps her work influenced volumes like “Silver Palate” above.

So, Mollie did it all.

Other authors employ artists and photographers to “Kick it up a Notch”.

Looking at my bookshelves I find that each volume has a voice; how it was done in the past, what alternatives are possible, comparisons and thoughts, old vs. new. Interesting.

And sometimes, for me, I return just for the images, for cooking is an art.

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